Travelogues

Remembering Gugongtan

Posted in The Rutgers Years, Travelogues on August 7th, 2010 by Mark – 2 Comments

Yeontan is a cylindrical coal briquette which was the primary cooking and heating fuel in twentieth-century Korea. It is often referred to as gu-gong-tan, a nine-holed briquette, though a standard yeontan has twenty-five holes. The peculiarity arises from a series of linguistic evolutions cut short by the fading usage. Originally, there were nineteen holes on yeontan. It was thus referred to as sipgu-gumeong-tan, a nineteen-holed briquette. The repetition of gu, however, rendered the pronunciation tricky, and the contraction sipgumeong-tan soon took over. But alas! ssip is a slang word for “vagina,” and it was now all too easy to order “pussy-hole briquettes.” Eventually, gong, another word for “hole,” was substituted for meong, and the preceding sip was taken out completely, resulting in the current nickname gugongtan.

Yeontan via http://islandlim.tistory.com/

By early 90′s, my hometown had become one of the last towns to have a sizable number of gugongtan-heated homes. Grandma used to tell me that I should wake up and run away as far as possible if I ever felt dizzy in my sleep. But how do I know I’m dizzy if I’m asleep? I had left my hometown at the age of three, and I am still not sure grandma ever answered my question.

My sharpest memory of the hometown is of a moment at the marketplace near grandma’s apartment. I had just read the name of the toy I wanted to my grandma: Ja-pan-ki-no-ri. I want that, grandma. Please? Grandma was first shocked that I was able to read, and was soon horrified that the mini vending machine cost nine-thousand-and-nine-hundred won. But I knew none of this; I had just wondered why it took grandma so long to find her purse. Back in the apartment with the new toy, I forgot all about the dizzies. Grandma also did not mention it for a while, but it took me a long time to realize the absence of warning.

Nineteen years have passed since then. I was back in my hometown, eating at a cheap sushi buffet with my aunt-in-law and her children; we were planning on visiting grandma’s grave afterwards. Aunt and I were talking about grandma, and it occurred to me that 9900 won was no longer enough for a meal at an okay restaurant: we had to pay 13000 won per person to eat in. What can you buy with 100 won around here these days? Why do you ask, aunt said. I need precisely nine-thousand-and-nine-hundred won.

It was the first time in my life I visited a relative’s grave on my own accord. Aunt and I bowed down, stood up, bowed down again, stood up, and dedicated to grandma’s grave a glass of makgeolli, the traditional Korean rice wine. Aunt then went looking for her little boy who ran down the mountain a few minutes ago. Left alone, I sat down and stared at grandma’s grave for a long while, only to find a little hole right next to the tombstone. I gave the hole a long gaze, drew a heavy sigh, and stuffed the money I brought into the hole. As I was filling the hole with dirt, however, I couldn’t shake off the feeling that I did something incredibly silly. I wanted to be dizzy once again: I could forget everything if I were dizzy, if I were given the cue to run away as far as possible. As soon as the thought pierced through my head, I grabbed the bottle of makgeolli and poured the drink into my mouth.

Nothing happened; the dizzies just weren’t there. I was only reminded that I knew now perfectly well when I would be dizzy in sleep—-and why, even. I threw the bottle into the ground, let out another faint sigh, and wondered what I could have done better as a two-year-old.